Here all of the parts you need to make your very own DIY gun cleaning kit. We recommend keeping all of the parts together until you need them, only building smaller kits for specific weapons when you're going to be using that weapon.

Cleaning rods: brass or steel is preferable; aluminum if there’s nothing else. You want enough sections to be able to clean out your longest rifle barrel, and extra sections and handgrips for pistols and other rifles, as well.
Bore Brushes: these are often stamped with the caliber (.22, .38, .45, etc.) on the base just past the threaded part you screw into the rod. They are also made for your chamber…to clean where the cartridge is actually seated when fired. The ones stamped with the caliber are meant to pass through the entire length of the barrel. If you have multiple firearms, consider getting this bore brush kit.
Patch-tips: have an “eye” hole at the end, and are threaded to screw onto your cleaning rod. The larger the eye, the bigger the patch it takes.
Cleaning brushes: You will have some that are made with nylon bristles, akin to a toothbrush, and some with wire/metal bristles. This latter group is especially helpful with carbon buildups.
Patches: can be 1” square, 2” square, and so forth; usually made of cotton or muslin fiber to clean the inside of the barrel and other locations with your firearm.
Pipe cleaners: especially helpful for small holes and other locations that have interworking mechanisms, such as trigger or hammer assemblies. Very useful in cleaning out carbon from around springs, deep within the magazine well, and in front of your firing pins.
Bore light devices: Once again, there are numerous types to choose from. I carry a small “mini Maglite” that uses one AAA battery; however, I recommend the little Plexiglas 90-degree angle “sticks” that are L-shaped. You place one end into the end of your barrel, and the other end point toward a light source (a light bulb, the sun, etc.) and it will illuminate your barrel.
Lubricant: Self-explanatory here. The function is to clean and also to coat with a light coating. If you caught my other piece, then you may recall: I recommend 5W/30 Mobil Synthetic Motor Oil, available at about $7 to $8 per quart. All the name-brand oils (Outers, etc.) sell for little 1 – 2 ounce bottles for about $3 to $4. You do the math. The Mobil Synthetic is a better oil, and far less expensive.

You'll also need bore solvent, preferably the highest quality you can afford because you don't want to use something that will leave behind a film. Finally, throw in some cleaning rags, pouches, and other accessories such as scrapers and magnifying glasses.

Article Source: SHTFPlan.com